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THE
NORTHERN COAST
Leaving behind the port of Piombino on
board the ferry heading towards Portoferraio,
after only 30 minutes of navigation the
first corner of Elba we encounter is the
stretch of coastline that extends from Capo
Vita to Nisporto and Nisportino. Enchanting
inlets and mystic beaches are dominated
by a contrasting landscape and steep cliff
faces of bizarre coloring. This remote coast
can only be accessed by sea and it is perhaps
for this reason that it remains one of the
most savage areas on the island.
Besides being an ideal centre for all keen
sailors, Bagnaia is also home of the fortress
of Volterraio. Constructed in the 11th.
century, the fortress was successful in
warding off the attacks of the Saracean
pirates. From the walls of this fortress,
one can witness breathtaking views of Portoferraio
and a unique and romantic sunset can be
admired from here at dusk.
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Before reaching Portoferraio
we encounter both Magazzini and San Giovanni
where the country side dwells with the sea
in an explosion of fragrance. Besides being
a minor tourist port, San Giovanni is home
of a renowned thermal spa that takes advantage
of the generosity of the surrounding sea
using seaweed and marine mud in the treatment
of arthritism, rheumatism and acne.
At Portoferraio, where the
coastlines are adorned with antique medievel
bastions we find the small beach named the
"Viste" accessible via a small
bushy path-way.Further along, Le Ghiaie,
which as the italian name suggests, is a
beach formed of small white pebbles, smoothed
by the sea.
In 1971 the crystal sea in this area was
declared a biologically protected zone but
it is only once one is immersed in these
waters that surround "lo Scoglietto"
that the beauty of the marine life and flora
can be truly appreciated.
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Continuing along the steep,
stark white coastline that expands out to
Capo Enfola we encounter La Padulella and
Capo Bianco, decorated by thousands of colors
and engulfed in the exotic fragrances of
the wild flowers that grow here. These two
beaches along with Prunini and Sorgente
combine in creating perhaps one of the most
spectacular coasts of the island.
On Capo Enfola, joined by
a very narrow isthmus, the old tuna factory
stands silhouetted against the sky. Here,
until 1958, the tuna caught in the nearby
fishing grounds was processed. Still today
there is enough fish in the sea around Elba
to satisfy professional fishermen, sports
fishermen in search of strong emotions and
keen amateurs eager spend a relaxing day.
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Leaving behind us the splendid
Gulf of Viticcio, a stretch of coast visited
by scores of boat and yacht-owners, where
rocks alternate with quiet little beaches,
fragranced by the aroma of Mediterranean
vegetation reaching down to the shore, we
come to the Gulf of Biodola; of all the
beaches on the island, those in the Gulf
of Biodola are the most well-known and frequented:
Forno, Scaglieri and Biodola with their
fine golden sand are quite unique.

Continuing along the coast
we come to the Gulf of Procchio, the old
Cervinia, one of the longest and most well-equipped
sandy beaches on the island. It was once
an important centre for the processing of
iron and copper, as testified by outstanding
archaeological finds, among which a smelting
oven and a Roman ship with its precious
cargo of amphorae, still perfectly preserved.
The Paolina rock close to the beach that
goes by the same name is famed for being
the place where Napoleons sister Paolina
(Pauline) used to bathe in the sea. Along
this stretch of coast green vegetation,
pine-trees and ilexes reach down to the
waters edge; there is even a small
pinewood on the tiny rock. The coastline
continues with enchanting little coves alternating
with sun-drenched beaches, many of which
are inaccessible except from the sea.
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